Author: Josip Forjan (Traditional Cultural Heritage Centre)
\nNikola Tesla Technical Museum Gallery<\/p>\n
With its presentation of Croatian traditional clothing in villages along the Kupa River
\nthe Traditional Cultural Heritage Center joins the celebration of the 100th anniversary
\nof the ethnologic expedition in the Kupa River basin made by the curators of the
\nEthnographic Museum in Zagreb Vladimir Tkal\u010di\u0107 and Milovan Gavazzi, painters
\nSre\u0107ko Sabljak and Maksimilijan Vanka, and five of their friends, who sailed down
\nfor about a hundred kilometres on the river and visited thirty-four villages on both
\nbanks, researching the ethnographic heritage of the villages along the Kupa river.
\nThe Kupa, a 294 km long river running from Gorski Kotar to the point where it flows into
\nthe Sava River near Sisak, is the third largest river in Croatia after the Sava and Drava. The
\nbasin of the Kupa River is composed of several regional areas of different ethnographic
\ncharacteristics, with clothing, or traditional costumes, being one of the most obvious ones.
\nTraditional clothing in Gorski Kotar, around the source of the Kupa River, was
\nabandoned in everyday use in favour of urban fashion very early. There are
\nfew original items preserved, mostly in museums, and written records about
\ntraditional clothing are sparse. The clothing was formed under the strong
\ninfluence of the Alpine cultural area, evident in the cut and ornaments.
\nTraditional costumes of the Ozalj area are specific, with a distinction between the costumes
\nof the area around Kamanje and those in the area around Mahi\u0107no, both containing
\nnumerous archaic elements. The most specific element is the headdress for married
\nwomen called jalba, made using an old knitting technique on a wooden frame called lucanj.
\nThe costumes of the larger area around Karlovac are mostly consistent, made of
\nhome-made natural beige linen or white cotton fabric decorated with characteristic
\nblue buttonhole stitch embroidery, which has more recently been increasingly
\nreplaced with the hand- or machine-made ri\u0161alje stitch with white or coloured
\nthread. They are also characterized by small vertical folds called knjiganje on women\u2019s<\/p>\n
skirts called krila and small blue vests called lajbak, decorated with a black
\nribbon called \u0161ujta\u0161 and golden or silver haberdasher\u2019s ribbons called \u0161iriti.
\nThe costumes of Re\u010dica, \u0160i\u0161ljavi\u0107, and the surrounding villages make up a separate
\nethnographic unit. These are known for their skirts called krila with small folds and
\ndecorated with horizontal black ornaments called pre\u0161iva and kri\u017ei. These are
\ndecorative white or colourful embroidered surfaces on the back. Men\u2019s clothing
\nfeatures cross-stitched details in various colours on the shirt, plain-woven trousers
\ncalled pantalone with embroidery and vertical sewed-in creases called naborine.
\nThe traditional costume of Donja Kup\u010dina and the surrounding villages is distinct for
\nits archaic horned women\u2019s headpiece rogi called \u0161pi\u0161njak, reminiscent of medieval
\nheadwear. The costumes of Lasinja and Jamnica are of similar types. They are
\nmade of white, plain-woven linen and subtly decorated with white and coloured
\nembroidery. These are recognizable for horizontal creases on both women\u2019s and
\nmen\u2019s sleeves, men\u2019s trousers and tiny vertical creases on women\u2019s skirts and aprons,
\nwhich are often the only decoration on the costume. Married women\u2019s clothing
\ninventory also contains a double-horned headpiece called rogi, which, in its most
\nfestive variant, is decorated with cross-stitch, glass beads and silk ribbons.
\nIn the villages along the Kupa river from Pokupsko to Sisak, where it enters the
\nSava, people used to wear clothing more typical of the Sava river basin with
\nstrong Pannonian characteristics made of large quantities of light plain-woven
\nlinen and decorated with various weaving techniques (u zijev, na prebor) or with
\nmultiple floral embroideries in the peasant baroque style. Married women wore a
\ncharacteristic headpiece called kapica (in Pokupsko) or poculica in the villages closer
\nto Sisak (Letovani\u0107, Brest, Sela), which is more typical for the Sava river area.
\nThe exhibition presents costumes from the Traditional Cultural Heritage Center\u2019s
\nrich collections, museums, private collections, and collections of folklore groups.<\/p>\n
Josip Forjan
\nTraditional Cultural Heritage Center<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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